Thursday, October 18, 2012

MANEKINEKO: The Good Luck Cat

                                   Come in, come in!



MANEKINEKO is the "good luck cat" frequently seen near the entrances to Asian stores, businesses and homes. Often referred to as the "waving cat" outside of Japan, manekineko are actually believed to be beckoning people to come in. The gesture used to wave goodbye in many western countries is very similar to the way Asians gesture to call or summon someone.

The right or left paw may be raised. It's generally held that the higher the paw is raised the "luckier" the figure as more people are drawn from further away. Some say that a beckoning left paw brings customers; a right one brings happiness. Others believe a left paw brings money while a right one protects it. Some greedy little guys want it all.....

                                                  Both paws up...luck? Bring it!

Manekineko are popular throughout Asia, but originated in Japan. The figures may be seen in all colours, but traditionally a Japanese bobtail is depicted, and calico is believed to be the luckiest colour.


                             A calico Japanese bobtail. Black cats are also considered lucky

Feng shui is the ancient Chinese art of positioning structures in such a way that they attract good energy and luck and ward off "evil". Some solid colour manekineko are believed to unite the power of Japanese lucky cats with the principles of feng shui. A solid blue manekineko placed in the north of a house may bring good health and so on.


Could it be that kitty is not waving at you but she is washing instead? Some Japanese believe that when a cat washes her face with her paws guests (or customers?) will soon arrive. Some Chinese believe that cats bathe when they sense rain is coming. Rain on the streets is believed to send customers into the stores. Either way they're good for business!

Is bigger better? This cat has a whole bag of gold!

A "koban" is an oval gold coin that was in circulation in Edo era Japan. Many lucky cats are seen holding one.

Possibly the most common example of a manekineko

Several stories surround the good luck associated with cats in Japan. One tells of a swordsman who was visiting a lady friend. The woman's beloved cat began acting very strangely, violently clawing at her clothes. Believing the cat was possessed by a demon, the man chopped off the cat's head. The severed head flew towards the ceiling where a poisonous snake had been waiting to attack the woman. The cat's head snapped its jaws around the snake saving his owners life. The woman was inconsolable following the death of her heroic companion. Distraught that he had murdered the creature, the swordsman comissioned a famous sculptor to recreate the woman's cat.

                        A wooden Manekineko from the 19th century Edo period

Another legend tells of a poor monk who kept a cat named "Tama" at his temple in Tokyo. During a storm a wealthy nobleman had taken shelter under a tree when he noticed the cat was beckoning him into the temple. Curious, he went to the cat. Seconds later, lightening struck the tree under which he had been standing. The nobleman and the monk became friends and the temple prospered. When Tama died, figures were made in his honour. The tradition continues at the Goutokuji Temple in Tokyo today.

Goutokuji Temple in Tokyo houses hundreds of manekineko figurines

If you've got a kitty, we hope she/he brings you lots of luck! Ideas for new posts always welcome, have a great day...

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Umami

UMAMI is often referred to as the "5th" taste. Sweet, salty, sour and bitter are considered to be the 4 "primary" tastes. "Umami" in Japanese translates as "deliciousness". Foods high in "umami" have a full flavoured savouriness and unique mouth feel that can be difficult to describe. "Yummy" works...

     Seaweed, mushrooms, tomato, parmesan cheese and cured meats are foods high in "umami"

For many centuries, the received wisdom was that all flavours were a combination of the 4 primary tastes. At about the same time however, a Japanese scientist named Ikeda and the famous French Chef Auguste Escoffier were having their doubts. Escoffier was in the process of revoloutionizing French cooking. He had invented a heavily reduced veal stock that formed the basis for many of his sauces. His customers were going wild over his new creations. "Like nothing they'd ever tasted before..."

   Continuously cooking, straining and reducing the veal stock concentrates the flavours 
            and is the starting point for hundreds of Escoffier's most famous recipes

Oceans away, Ikeda-san was puzzling over what it was that made his wife's homemade dashi stock taste so damn good. Dashi is the starting point for many Japanese soups, sauces and recipes and is made from dried tuna, seaweed and small anchovies. It wasn't a salty taste, but richer; complex and more flavourful. And it certainly didn't fall under the categories of sweet, sour or bitter, so what exactly was it?

        Making Japanese dashi the traditional way. Unlike most French stocks, dashi is quick 
                            to make and does not need to be reduced

Years of lab work paid off and in 1908 Ikeda succeeded in isolating an amino acid that is a "glutamate" or glutamic acid. Glutamic acid is tasteless. Until you break it down by cooking, curing, fermenting or ripening the food in question. The deconstructed glutamate ("L" or "D" glutamate) is what lights up your tastebuds. It also combines with the foods that it is prepared with and makes them taste better as well.


   Fresh fish is delicious, but low in glutamates. A drop of soy sauce is a "U-bomb"; a powerful source of umami that elevates sushi from so-so to spectacular

Back in France, Chef Escoffier was also hard at work. By cooking down veal bones and vegetables, he had hit on a highly effective way of drawing out and concentrating umami in his stocks, which formed the base for his sauces. His use of tomatoes, mushrooms and cheeses (all high in glutamates) further elevated the yummy factor in his hundreds of new recipes.

        "Chicken Chasseur" is a classic Escoffier recipe packed with umami rich ingredients

Curing, drying and aging meats and cheeses builds umami and boosts the flavour factor in these foods. A thin slice of a well-aged sausage or fine cheese atop a slice of fresh bread is a simple, savoury delight. In the past, curing, drying and fermenting foods also helped preserve them without refrigeration.
                      Italy, Spain and Germany are famous for their sausages and cured meats

Some of our favourite dishes are superb combinations of foods naturally high in glutamates. Think of a ceaser salad. Crisp lettuce by itself is blah. It's the dressing that makes it. Anchovies and parmesan cheese are packed with umami.


Bacon is another "U bomb'. Probably why it ends up in salads and sandwichs; on burgers and pizzas; even finding it's way into ice cream and chocolate. Is it the umami in bacon that allows it to make almost anything taste good?

                  Bacon Maple Miso Milkshake? From an umami standpoint, it should work......

Tomatoes, mushrooms and potatoes are high in natural glutamates. They pair well with cheeses and these combinations are found in kitchens around the world. Pierogies or piroshki are popular in Russia and eastern Europe. Savoury versions are often stuffed with umami laden potato, mushroom, meat and/or cheese.


Italian cooks have come up with countless recipes incorporating tomato and cheese in pastas, salads and, of course, on pizzas....


Ikeda was the first to chemically isolate and name L-glutamate. But umami rich fermented products have long been a staple for Asian and South East Asian cooks. Soy sauce, fish sauce and fermented bean pastes all pack a powerful umami punch. Thai and Vietnamese Chefs rely on different "fish sauces" to elevate the flavour in their dishes.

Many brands/grades of fish sauce are produced throughout South East Asia

As with olive oil and balsmic vinegars, fish sauce comes in many different "grades". The quality varies depending on the kinds and parts of the fish used, and the production process. Colour is another important factor, and generally speaking, a lighter, golden colour fish sauce is preferred over a dark, coffee-coloured one. Personal preference plays a part; a strong, salty taste pleases one palate while another prefers a sweeter, lighter sauce.

Interestingly, fish sauce was first used in ancient Rome. "Garum" was made using larger fish like tuna and mackerel as well as small fish like anchovies. It's use spread to kitchens across the Roman Empire and beyond.

            The ancient ruins of a Roman fish sauce factory. Fish guts would be removed as quickly as possible, mixed with salt and other ingredients and allowed to ferment in the sun
 Many believe that Britian's famous Worcestershire sauce borrowed from fermented fish sauce recipes originating in ancient times. Impossible to believe? Maybe not....anchovies, tamarind and cloves are all ingredients in the sauce that can season anything....

                                                           "NEW!"....probably not so much....

MSG is a chemical derivative of naturally occuring glutamates. It is also marketed as "Ajinomoto" and other names by companies around the world. It is commonly found in processed fast foods and prepared sauces and seasonings. Many people are looking to avoid MSG consumption and look for "no MSG" added restaurants and packaging. At Sanbiki we do not add MSG to any of our dishes. Instead, we use homemade stocks that harness the natural glutamates in our seaweed, seafood and other ingredients.

"Umami". It sounds very Japanese; very new and trendy. But the glutamates responsible for umami are anything but. Chefs and housewives around the world have long recognized that certain ingredients could be used and combined to develop flavour and add depth to their dishes. Umami's universal appeal is perhaps to be expected. You could say we've developed a taste for glutamates before we develop "taste". As babies in the womb we are surrounded by amniotic fluid that is rich in glutamates. It's also present in our mothers milk!

More next time...

Saturday, September 8, 2012

NINJA

                                      WANTED!
Men (and women) with an interest and/or experience in espionage, sabotage, infiltration, intimidation and assasination. Japanese language ability a must, ethics optional. Will train. Applications being accepted by your local Samurai lord. Absolute discretion assured...


"Ninja Warriors" are often portrayed as violent masters of the martial arts, cloaked head to toe in black, wielding long swords and hurling fancy killing stars. The reality was somewhat different. The depiction of ninjas in black reflects their desire to be "invisible". As their missions most often involved espionage, assasination and/or infiltration of enemy strongholds, they assumed any disguise that helped them achieve their objective. Cloaked in the garb of a "Komuso" (Zen Priest) allowed a ninja to hide his face and seem non-threatening.

Komuso costume provided ninjas with a perfect disguise for daytime travel. The "flute" was also an excellent way to deliver a poison dart.....

Disguises also allowed the ninja to collect valuable information. Dressed as a merchant, monk or traveller, they could move amongst the crowds, making enquiries. Finding out where their target ate, drank and slept. Stories shared over sake might reveal the location of a secret backdoor or previously unknown guard post....Ninjas sought to assimilate themselves, and they were often able to move freely inside their target's compounds before striking.

Ninja are pop culture icons in and outside of Japan

Ninjutsu, or "the art of stealth/invisibility" as it translates in Japanese, originated around 600AD in Japan. It is said that many of the strategies and also the philosophy behind Japanese ninjutsu originated in China and India. Interestingly, there was a strong connection between monks and warriors. It was not unusual to encounter warrior-monks in ancient China and Japan. One's philosophy, spirituality and self-discipline was the starting point for understanding and learning about the world. How one applied their knowledge and experience depended on the individual and their situation.

          Ninja attire needed to be lightweight and to allow for free and quiet movement

Ninja shared some methods of training and weapons with members of the noble Samurai class. However, when it came to philosophy and ethics, the two were miles apart. Like the knights of old England, samurai were sworn to uphold a strict code of honour (called "bushido") and loyalty to one's 'Daimyo" ("lord") was paramount. Samurai warriors fought face to face, unafraid to annouce their intentions, challenges and alliances. While a samurai was forbidden to stab you in the back, a ninja (for a price) always would.

Samurai usually wore heavy protective armour when fighting

Humiliated or failed Samurai would often commit ritual suicide (Seppuku). Samurai who wanted to get a dirty job done (but not soil his own hands) would hire a ninja. Honour, loyalty and lofty ideals were of no consequence to a ninja. Getting the job done at the negotiated price as quickly and quietly as possible was far more important. Which led to the creation of some unique "equal opportunity" employment situations for women... 

                                Send a woman to do a ninja's job? Why not?
                  As long as the job got done, the who and the how were details... 

"Kunoichi" were female ninjas.  Widowed by her samurai husband, Mochizuke Chiyome founded an underground "ninja school'" for girls. Orphaned or abandoned girls were taken in and trained in the ways of ninjutsu. They also learned many of the arts associated with geisha (as well as those of the prostitute!). Using one or a combination of these "skills" allowed them to get up close and personal to their almost exclusively male targets. Who might find themselves caught with their pants (and more importantly) their guard down.....

Kunoichi were often able to get physically close to their targets, so training in "short range" weaponry was popular

Like the elite Samurai warrior class, ninja were skilled in the martial arts. But equally important was their mastery of self discipline, "spiritual refinement" and unarmed combat. Geography, astronomy and the ecology of animals, and even insects, were also studied. A ninja needed to be able to survive for long periods in the wild, treat any injuries by themself and navigate without a map. Ants and termites indicated water was nearby. Crickets were sometimes carried by ninja to cover any small noises they made when sneaking about. But ninja weapons are much, much, cooler than bugs....

                     Shuriken (throwing knives) came in many shapes but were small enough to be hidden 
                     in hand for later delivery to an enemy forehead

Shuriken were commonly carried by ninja. Seemingly nasty enough on their own, ninja would sometimes give them a quick dip in poison for added toxic effect. Poison was an effective away to eliminate one's enemy. Fugu are highly poisonous pufferfish prized in Japan as sushi or sashimi. Ninja would use poison from fugu livers, toads and toxic mushrooms when possible.

Ishikawa Goemon was a notorious ninja who famously hid in the attic above where one of his targets would sleep. He silently lowered a thread until it hung directly above the great samurai General Nobunaga's mouth. Drop by drop he "fed" him poison. Unfortunately for Ishikawa, the General was a light sleeper and awoke before a fatal dose could be adminstered. A similar scene in the James Bond thriller You Only Live Twice is rumoured to have been inspired by Ishikawa's adventure.

Knives and swords popular with both ninja and samurai

 A long sword or "katana", twinned with a "wakizushi" (short sword) were the standard tools of the trade for the elite samurai. Ninja also liked to keep one or both of these handy. Being undercover however, meant that weaponry often had to be small enough to conceal; or of such a nature such that it would not arise suspicion while being carried. Weapons that could also be used as tools for climbing, digging etc were particularly valuable.


"Nekote" ("cats claws") were effective not only for inflicting serious scratches (particlarly when dipped in poison) but could also be helpful when climbing trees or scaling castle walls...

Firebugs would have found success in the ninja profession. Arson was frequently used in attacks on enemy castles and strongholds. Fire crackers and primitive grenade like devices provided a distraction for ninjas infiltrating a well-guarded area. A moment was all most ninjas needed.
                        A Japanese woodblock print shows a ninja up to no good....

Surprisingly, there is very little written historical record of ninja exploits. Perhaps this is partially responsible for the super natural powers sometimes attributed to some ninja. Japanese folk tales and plays tell of ninja who could disappear at will and summon animals and the elements to help in their work.

There is no record of ninja cats in Japanese historical literature. Does that mean they didn't exist? Perhaps they were so skilled; so adept at their work that no one ever figured out it was in fact ninja cats that were doing a lot of the samurai's killing...you'd never suspect that cute kitty now, would you? Thats all for now :)



Monday, August 20, 2012

Meet Our Sanbiki Team!


             Sanbiki's Christmas/New Years Party brings together staff new and old!

You know their faces but you may not  know their names. This post is dedicated to the hardworking ladies and gentlemen that help us keep it together at Sanbiki, and next door at Mori Mori Grocery.

MEGUMI is usually the first face you'll see when you enter Sanbiki. Is it super busy? Megumi is probably still smiling; an oasis of calm in the controlled chaos. She'll always do her best to make sure you and all of our customers are fed, watered and well-cared for. She has studied here in Kamloops at TRU and also in Shanghai, China! She is originally from Fukushima, Japan.

                   Megumi (right) has been with us for over 3 years. Recognize Chie next to her? Chie left Sanbiki to start a family and restaurant of her own! Her and husband Yuki now own and operate the popular Tiger Ramen in Sahali.

                Chef Hiro is a little crazy, it's a survival strategy out here on planet Sanbiki.....
HIRO
Chef Hiro joined Sanbiki last year. You'll often see him working at Sanbiki's sushi-making station. Previously, Hiro and his wife Seiko lived and worked in Fiji and Japan. They are the proud parents of beautful Reina-chan, their first daughter now 10 kilos and 10 months old!

                                      Hiro folding Sanbiki's homemade gyoza

YAMA
Chef Yama came to Kamloops after an extended stay in Mongolia. Working at the Japanese Embassy there gave him the opportunity to cook not just Japanese dishes but to explore other cuisines as well. 
           Chef Yama visits with Reina-chan, daughter of  Hiro and Seiko and the newest
                              member of Sanbiki's extended family

It was natural that Yama was in charge of creating a special menu for a private luncheon recently hosted at Sanbiki by Japanese Consul General Ito from Vancouver!


         Sanbiki's special lunch box for Ito-san and his Kamloops Japanese-Canadian guests

HIDEKI
Our newest addition to Sanbiki's professional kitchen crew! Hideki came to Kamloops from Japan just a few months back. We look forward to making the most of his experience and skills in Sanbiki's kitchen.

                                                  Hideki and Aya in Sanbiki's open kitchen

NIGEL
He towers (literally) head and shoulders above the rest of us at Sanbiki! Nigel has lived in Vancouver, Revelstoke and the Kamloops area. He has studied Japanese, and his interest in Japanese cusine and his willingness to learn have made him a valuable member of our kitchen crew.

                     Nigel and Yama prepare take out for Mori Mori Grocery every morning

AYA has been studying at TRU and living in Kamloops for several years. With the recent warm summer weather, she can sometimes be found with daughter Sara enjoying the water park!
    Aya's daughter Sara and her friend at Mori Mori...treats from Tomoko keep them smiling!

YUN HEE speaks Japanese and English, but don't be fooled! She's orgininally from South Korea, so she is...trilingual! She has lived in Japan but now calls Kamloops home. With two teenagers, one husband and a full time job, she is a very busy lady indeed. We're happy to have her onboard!
                                Mao (left) and Yun Hee are day shift regulars at Sanbiki!
ZACK can be found doing prep early in the mornings and also cleaning up late at night. He joined us just this year but he's learning lots. Both Zack and Nigel have expressed an interest in skydiving...Time to consider forming a Sanbiki Skydiving Team? Count me in!
It's a Sanbiki tradition...a DQ birthday cake with Zack, Hiro and Nigel.

You'll also see BEN, MAO, SOLANGE and some other new faces in the kitchen and on the floor. We're always looking for good people and good ideas to help us serve our customers better!

Have we saved the best for last? Mori Mori's many regular customers may think so...

TOMOKO has been with us longer than anyone. She came to us back in 2006 when we opened Sanbiki's sister grocery Mori Mori and has managed it ever since. She helped us with the move from Mori Mori's old location at 749 Victoria to our current space at the corner of Lansdowne and 5th. She works hard to ensure both Mori Mori and Sanbiki run smoothly. She works even harder keeping Masato and Heather organized and up to date with the technology they purchase; pretend to understand, and then ask her to figure out!

                                   "It's easy, boss...point and click....."

          Masato and Heather at the entrance to Sanbiki's beautiful new location at Lansdowne and 5th Avenue. The space was designed and built by Chase-based Daizen Joinery

MASATO is the "Papa Bear" in the Sanbiki cave. Born in Osaka, Japan he spent several years working in Thailand. Before opening Sanbiki in 2002, he apprenticed at Basara, a friends restaurant in Tokyo. He played rugby for many years in Japan and Thailand. These days he's hoping for a few days off to relax and enjoy the great fishing in the Kamloops area...

HEATHER is Sanbiki's resident crazy cat lady, cheerleader and executive dishwasher. Born in Vancouver, she spent several years abroad working as a travel writer, English teacher and as a volunteer on development projects in India and Africa. Strange sweet sushi and Hello Kitty cookies on display for fundraising? Probably her weird work...

Masato and Heather met in Thailand and have been married for 12 years. No kids; just cats...and dogs!
             Our "girls"(Goldie and Saba) always look forward to patio visits with Sanbiki's team!

Thanks for your interest in us! We look forward to seeing you soon at Sanbiki and next door at Mori Mori for groceries and sushi to go!

Monday, August 13, 2012

MISO



Nearly everyone who has been in a Japanese restaurant has ordered miso soup. But what are you getting? Chances are you can identify the cubes of tofu that sink to the bottom of the bowl. The tiny rings of green onion floating on the surface are an easy garnish to guess. But the muddy looking paste that is the actual miso? Where did that come from?

                                  Many kinds of miso, all start with the humble soybean

MISO PASTE is made from varying combinations of soybeans, rice, barley and/or other grains. The ingredients are mixed and fermented for anywhere from a few days to several years. "Koji" is added at the beginning and acts as the fermentation culture to start the miso making process. Thousands of different varieies of miso exist, and classifying them can be a challenge. Basically, they can be differentiated by colour and grain type.

                              Red (aka) miso on the left with white (shiro) miso to the right

AKA miso is red miso. A favourite in Tokyo and other areas of Eastern Japan it has a strong, salty flavour due in part to it's relatively long fermentation time. SHIRO miso is sweeter and milder than aka miso. Often called "white" miso, it's commonly used in Osaka and the Kansai area of Western Japan. No hard and fast rules apply regarding the types of miso and how they are used. Misos may be mixed, served in hot or cold preparations, and have a smooth or course texture.

            "Sano Miso" in Tokyo sells hundreds of different miso pastes from all over Japan

Some people make their own miso. It is not difficult, but takes patience and time for the miso to mature. Most Canadians buy prepared miso from their Japanese grocer. Sweeter, mild shiro (white) miso lends itself nicely to seafood marinades and preparations. Red meats stand up well to the strength and saltiness of red miso. Both can be used for miso soup. Other less known but delicious miso pastes include genmai miso made with brown rice. Mugi miso brings barley to the party, and tsubu miso uses whole wheat or barley. Hacho miso is made with almost 100% soybeans and has a rich, earthy flavour. It is almost black in colour.
      Hacho miso ages in 200 year old wooden vats according to a method from 1337

AWASE refers to the "special blend" of misos (usually red and white) that is particular to one family or region. "Awase" means "to adjust", and the proportions of awase miso are altered to suit the tastes and recipes where it is being used. Don't be shy! Try it at home...experimenting is part of the fun.

Miso is excellent for marinating just about anything. Vegetables and tofu served with miso are healthy, tasty meat free options. Japanese eggplant (the long, slender variety) is superb when grilled after a long rest in a miso marinade....
                                            Drooling over my keyboard even as I type...YUM.

MISO SOUP is miso paste mixed with DASHI (a Japanese stock). The soup is often garnished with fresh or deep fried tofu, green onion, spinach or seaweed and in some cases clams or shellfish. A staple in Japan, miso soup can show up at breakfast, lunch or dinner. Many instant varieties are available that do not require refrrigeration.


DASHI is a Japanese stock made from konbu (dried kelp), niboshi (small dried fish) and katsuboshii (shaved, dried tuna). Specialty dashi varieties are available that do not contain seafood (seaweed only and vegan) or ones that are flavoured with mushroom, fish etc. At Sanbiki, we use homemade dashi.

        Masato makes dashi with dried tuna, konbu (kelp) and niboshi (small dried fish)

DIY miso recipes are easy! For soup it is possible to buy DASHI MISO which has dashi stock mixed in with the miso. Just add hot water and garnish. Easy! We sell many kinds of miso at Mori Mori Grocery, but dashi miso is the favourite for fans of miso soup.

You can also buy powdered dashi, (or make it yourself) and then mix it with your preferred miso paste. Be careful not to boil the soup after adding the miso. It is said that boiling miso spoils the taste. High temperatures also kill off the microorganisms that help make miso such a healthy food. Some people add miso to sauces and foods after they have cooled believing this maximizes miso's health benefits.

TIPS

Miso paste can be refrigerated after opening. It lasts a long time (months!) if it's kept covered in the fridge. Like some kinds of cheese, mould that forms on the surface can be scraped off and the product underneath remains usable.

Dashi miso is not usually used for marinating as it has a seafood stock already added. It is only used for miso soup.

Miso soup is not eaten with a spoon in Japan. It is entirely acceptable to drink from the bowl, using one's chopsticks to pick out any tasy solid tidbits in the soup.

Miso can be used by iteself (or combined with mayonaisse) for a deliciously different dip. Cucumber, carrots and other veggies work especially well!